Peter has written 153 articles

XE Trade: sending money internationally fee-free

After trying out XE Trade last year to convert Canadian dollars into US dollars for my own personal use, I decided to try it for business use. My company has a sub-contractor in the UK, and our alternatives were to send a wire transfer or a cheque. A wire transfer typically charges both the sender and the receiver fees, while a cheque takes time to send, deposit, and clear.

XE Trade was easy to use, fee-free, and fast. By “fee-free” I mean that they did not charge an extra fee on top of their regular currency exchange spread — and I’ve found their spread to be quite competitive. I just had to choose “ACH/EFT” as the sending method. I now intend to use XE Trade on a regular basis for my company.

The setup process required me to send XE Trade quite a few company documents electronically. Once set up, however, I just had to enter the recipient’s bank account information and then pay a bill as if it were any regular bill (such as a credit card bill). For more information on that general process, see my previous review.

Here is the timeline in business days for how long it took for me to set up a business account with XE Trade and send a payment in Canadian dollars from a Canadian bank to be deposited in British pounds in a UK bank.

Day 1: Registered for an XE Trade account
Day 1: Received an e-mail (in my spam folder) asking that I send over scanned documents (driver’s licence, certificate of incorporation, articles of association, names of shareholders owning 25% of more of the business) to verify my identity
Day 2: Received a reminder e-mail asking that I send over scanned documents to verify my identity
Day 3: I sent over scanned documents
Day 4: Received notification that the account was activated
Day 5: I initiated a trade (CAD in Canada to GBP in the UK) with a locked in rate based on that day, chose “ACH/EFT” as the sending method, and paid the bill through my bank’s online interface
Day 8: Received a notification e-mail that the money was sent to the recipient
Day 11: Money was deposited into the destination account; no fees were deducted on either end

The time between sending and receiving money took 6 business days.

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Mortgage renewal considerations: principal prepayment privileges and collateral mortgages

When your mortgage term is up for renewal, there is no shortage of factors to consider. Variable vs fixed, interest rate, and term length are the headline details. Beyond those aspects, there are quite a few other factors, some of which aren’t always brought up by your mortgage broker or bank.

For me, annual principal prepayment privileges and collateral charges were two issues that played a big role in my renewal process.

When you enter a new mortgage term, you are often told about an annual principal prepayment privilege, which allows you to make lump sum payments totaling between 10-20% of your original mortgage amount every year without penalty. These payments are applied fully to the principal amount remaining. When you’re renewing your mortgage with the same lender, the “original mortgage amount” is usually considered the initial amount on your first mortgage term. When you’re renewing your mortgage with a different lender, the “original mortgage amount” is usually considered the mortgage renewal amount.

This can make a big difference in how much of your mortgage you can pay off every year. If you opened a 5-year $200,000 mortgage in 2008 with a 15% annual principal prepayment privilege, you could pay up to $30,000 extra per year. If in 2013 you had $100,000 of principal remaining and you were to renew with the same lender, you would still be able to pay up to $30,000 extra per year. If you were to switch lenders, and they offered the same 15% annual principal prepayment privilege, you would only be able to pay up to $15,000 extra per year.

As for a collateral charge mortgage, the major con of such a mortgage is that at the regular renewal time when your term is up, you have to pay extra legal fees if you wanted to switch lenders. Switching lenders at renewal time is usually considered a normal, no-fee thing to do. Some lenders, such as TD Canada Trust and ING Direct, currently only offer a collateral charge mortgage, and sometimes do not point this out to you. On the flip side, there are some benefits to having a collateral charge mortgage, related to refinancing and accessing more credit. CBC Marketplace explains this a bit more; be sure to do your own research about collateral charge mortgages.

In general, remember to make your own list of what is important for you in a mortgage. Be sure that the mortgage broker or bank, who might be more focused on promoting certain products and highlighting certain benefits, takes the time to listen to your needs first. Not every mortgage is the same, and different home buyers / owners have different needs!

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Tax Free Savings Account year-end tips

The end of the calendar year is a good time to think about Tax Free Savings Accounts (TFSA) for a couple of main reasons:

  • You get an extra $5,500 contribution room on January 1, 2013 (up from $5,000 in previous years)
  • The end of the year is the best time to withdraw money from a TFSA if you want to minimize the time until the contribution room created from the withdrawal is available again. A more concrete example of this: it is easiest to move money from one TFSA to another TFSA by withdrawing from one TFSA at the end of the year and depositing to another TFSA at the beginning of the next year

Rules

Tax Free Savings Accounts have caused some confusion since they were introduced (as evidenced by some of the posts in this forum). For a comprehensive overview about TFSA rules and benefits, check out the Canada Revenue Agency site.

The biggest confusion around TFSAs is typically regarding withdrawals: you can withdraw money from a Tax Free Savings Account to a non-TFSA account during the year, but that does not create contribution room to deposit money back into a TFSA until the following year. As such, frequent withdrawals and deposits (unless in small amounts) can bring you over your contribution limit.

Technically, your available contribution room (in other words, the amount of money that you can deposit) for the current year remains fixed all year, and is made up of:

  1. New contribution room available on January 1 ($5,500 in 2013)
  2. Unused contribution room from the previous year
  3. Withdrawals made in the previous year (including any interest earned that you withdrew)

A very simple example: Suppose you had never opened a TFSA before, and deposited exactly $20,000 into a TFSA in January 2012, maxing out your contribution room. Then, you withdraw $5,000 in February 2012. You cannot re-deposit that $5,000 into a TFSA without penalty until January 2013.

You can transfer money between Tax Free Savings Accounts at different institutions during the year without adversely affecting your contribution limit, although some institutions will charge a transfer fee.

There are some good example scenarios out there that go beyond the basics, such as here, here and here.

Unfortunately, due to the fact that you can open a TFSA at almost any financial institution, there isn’t an easy way for the government give you a real-time report of your contribution room during the year. (I remember seeing such a report once, and it was inaccurate.) Therefore, you have to keep close track of your contributions and withdrawals yourself.

Beware of teaser interest rates

Because it is not as easy to move money in and out of a TFSA as with other bank accounts, you are slightly more locked in to a financial institution’s TFSA account. Thus, you are more vulnerable to fluctuating interest rates. Some banks have, in my opinion, abused this fact by offering higher rates at the beginning of the year and then dropping the rate a few months later for more reasons than just “market fluctuations”. You and your money are a bit stuck at that point. I am not predicting that this will happen again, but it is definitely something to be suspicious about when you see a higher than usual TFSA rate at the beginning of the year.

Some examples:

  • Canadian Tire Financial TFSA:
    January 8, 2010: 3.15%; May 7, 2010: 2.15%
    December 30, 2010: 3.50%; March 31, 2011: 2.50% (even though they had advertised that it was “not a temporary promotional rate”)
    December 29, 2011: 2.75%; March 31, 2012: 2.00%
  • ING Direct
    Jan 1, 2010: 3.00% (was 1.20% on Dec 15, 2009); April 28, 2010: 2.00%
    Dec 30, 2010: 2.00% (was 1.50% on Oct 2, 2010); August 20, 2011: 1.50%
    January 1, 2012: 2.00%; April 1, 2012: 1.60%; March 20, 2012: 1.40%

See this comparison chart for some historical data on rates.

More than just a savings account

You can open a TFSA trading account for investments (such as in stocks) and you won’t be taxed on the gains made within the TFSA. However, you are also subject to more volatility compared to investing outside of a TFSA: you aren’t able to deduct capital losses within a TFSA from other taxable gains, while you are able to deduct capital losses outside of a TFSA.

You can also open other accounts, such as a GIC, within a TFSA. See this thread for some discussion around this.

Note: re-posted from here; originally published November 25, 2011; updated December 19, 2012

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Savings account investment strategy: what are laddered term deposits / GICs?

I’ve seen the term “laddering” a lot on highinterestsavings.ca but many people don’t understand what it means. Many people, if asked whether they ladder their investments, will respond with “What is laddering?”. Here’s a short explanation of laddering in the context of term deposits aka GICs.

Laddering not a special type of account, nor something that is only available to some people, nor something you have to apply for. Rather, it is a simple strategy for increasing the interest rate earned on your savings using standard GICs.

Whether you are heavily invested in stocks or whether you are ultra-conservative and won’t put your money anywhere other than a savings account at a major bank, you’ve probably put money in a GIC or thought about it. There are a couple of common concerns regarding GICs:

  • What if you don’t want to lose access to your money for an extended period of time?
  • What if interest rates rise in the future and you miss out on a better rate?

Typically, the savings account offers the lowest rate, and the longer the term of the GIC, the higher the rate. If you’re looking at a 1.5% savings account and a 1.5% 1-year GIC, especially if you think interest rates have hit rock bottom, there is probably no point to investing in the GIC. With the 1-year GIC, you would be giving up liquidity (easy access to withdraw cash) for an arguably negligible benefit (being guaranteed 1.5% for a year and being better off were the savings account rate to drop during that time). And you might look at a 5-year GIC at 2.75% and decide that it’s not worth stashing away your money for so long. You struggle to try to “time” the market; in other words, how do you know when is the right moment to put all your money in a long term deposit? So your money ends up sitting in your savings account unto forever.

Laddering attempts to address those concerns and is best illustrated with an example. Suppose you have $5,000 in savings. You can split that into 5 x $1,000, and start by opening 5 separate GICs: a 1-year, a 2-year, a 3-year, a 4-year, and a 5-year. (Another common surprise for some is that every major financial institution offers 1-year, 2-year, 3-year, 4-year, and 5-year GICs, and often shorter and/or longer terms as well.) This means that you can count on some money becoming available again every year. As each term matures, if you don’t need that money, you can invest it in another 5-year term. If you repeat this process (re-investing each $1,000 + interest amount in a new 5-year term when it matures), you will always be invested in the longest term at the highest rate.

In other words, with laddering you split your money into separate investment bundles, all with different terms and maturity dates, so that you can take advantage of higher rates without locking away all of your money. You can vary this approach in a multitude of ways, such as having 3 years as your longest term or making each bundle have unequal amounts. Also, this concept is not limited to GICs; it can be applied to other types of investments as well.

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Canadian credit cards that waive foreign currency transaction fees

Most credit cards charge a 2.5% transaction fee on top of the exchange rate on US-dollar and other foreign currency transactions. There are a few credit cards that currently do not charge this fee; they are all Chase-issued cards:

They are worth considering if you do a fair amount of purchases each year outside of Canada. $1000 of purchases would typically cost an extra $25 in transaction fees; $5000 would typically add another $125 in transaction fees. Of course, there are many other factors to consider when choosing a credit card, such as rewards program, annual fee, insurance benefits, customer service, interest rates (if you do not pay your balance in full each month), and much more.

If you have a US-dollar bank account, you could also look into US-dollar credit cards, such as this one from BMO that has a $25 annual fee ($35 starting September 1, 2012) that is waived if you spend at least $1000 US in a year. This saves you the transaction fee for US purchases, saves you the exchange rate buy-sell spread (since you almost never get the mid-rate), and insulates you from exchange rate fluctuations. At the moment there are no Canadian-issued, US-dollar credit cards without an annual fee (except when part of a banking bundle or with a minimum spend).

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