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My journey to building my credit score as a student

I have heard the phrase “build your credit while you’re young” a lot, but no one really explains what that actually means or how many little things can affect it. At first, I didn’t pay much attention to it. I got my first credit card, made payments, and assumed everything was fine. It wasn’t until I checked my credit score and started reading more about personal finance that I realized there was a lot more going on behind the scenes.

At the time, my credit score was around 673. My credit card had been open for about two years, my credit limit was $1,000, I had student loans, and I had unfortunately missed a payment in the past. My balance (which I pay off in full every month except for one time) usually sat around $300, which I never really thought much about.

I started reading articles, browsing banking forums, comparing different people’s experiences, and asking questions whenever something didn’t make sense. One thing I noticed almost immediately was that there wasn’t one magical trick that suddenly gave people excellent credit.

Why your credit score matters

Before I started paying attention to my credit score, I did not think it mattered very much. I assumed it was something people only worried about when they were buying a house or financing a car later in life. The more I learned, the more I realized that your credit score can start affecting your financial decisions much earlier than that.

Your credit score is essentially a snapshot of how well you’ve managed borrowed money in the past. Banks and lenders use it to help determine how risky it might be to lend you money. While it isn’t the only factor they look at, it can influence everything from whether you’re approved for a credit card or line of credit to the interest rate you receive on a loan. In some cases, landlords, utility companies, and even certain employers (with your permission where applicable) may also review your credit history as part of their decision-making process.

One thing I also did not realize at first is that there isn’t just one universal credit score. In Canada, there are two main credit bureaus: Equifax and TransUnion. Since lenders do not always report information to both bureaus at the exact same time, and because each bureau uses its own scoring model, your score can be slightly different depending on where you check it. That’s completely normal, and it doesn’t necessarily mean something is wrong.

Checking your credit score is also much easier than I expected. Many banks now include it for free through their online banking apps. I personally use my TD Bank account to check my score, and sometimes I use ClearScore if I want a more comprehensive report. One thing I found reassuring is that checking your own credit score through these services is considered a soft inquiry, meaning it does not lower your credit score.

How your credit score is calculated

Both Equifax and TransUnion explain what goes into a credit score.

The biggest factor is your payment history. Both credit bureaus explain that consistently making your payments on time is one of the most important things you can do. It shows lenders that you have a history of managing borrowed money responsibly. On the other hand, missed or late payments can remain on your credit report for several years and may lower your credit score.

Another important factor is credit utilization, which is the percentage of your available credit that you’re using. For example, if your credit limit is $1,000 and your balance is $300, your credit utilization is 30%. If your credit limit is $5,000 and you have the same $300 balance, your credit utilization is 6%.

I always paid my bill (well, almost, but more on that later), so in my head I thought, “Well, I’m paying it back anyway; what difference does it make?” But lenders don’t just look at whether you’re making payments. They also look at how much of your available credit you’re using. A higher credit limit isn’t just about having more money available to spend; it also affects your credit utilization. In general, using a lower percentage of your available credit is viewed more favourably than using most of it.

Increasing your credit limit while keeping your balance the same might lower your credit utilization (and thus improve your credit score), but keep in mind that your total available credit also factors into how much more credit a lender is willing to give you.

The credit bureaus also consider the length of your credit history. Accounts that have been open and managed responsibly for a longer period of time generally strengthen your credit profile because they provide lenders with a longer history of how you’ve handled credit. Learning this reminded me that building good credit is something that happens over time, and there really isn’t a shortcut when it comes to the age of your accounts.

Another factor is your credit mix, which refers to the different types of credit you have. This can include credit cards, student loans, lines of credit, car loans, and mortgages. Lenders look at your overall credit profile rather than a single account.

Finally, the credit bureaus also consider your recent credit activity. Applying for several new credit products within a short period of time can temporarily lower your credit score because each application may result in a hard inquiry on your credit report. While one hard inquiry usually has only a small impact, several applications over a short period of time can suggest that you’re relying more heavily on credit, which may increase the level of risk from a lender’s perspective.

My missed payment

This was probably the lesson that stuck with me the most. When people talk about improving their credit score, it’s easy to focus on everything they’re doing right today (paying bills on time, not spending too much). I was doing many of those things too. But I also had to acknowledge something that wasn’t helping my case which was that I had missed a credit card payment in the past.

Looking back, it wasn’t because I couldn’t afford the payment. Life just got busy. As a student, there are weeks where it feels like everything is happening at once. Midterms, assignments, work, family commitments, and trying to have some sort of social life all compete for your attention. A credit card due date can easily become just another notification that gets pushed aside. I used to think being a few days late wasn’t a huge deal, but lenders don’t really see it that way.

Imagine submitting an assignment three days after the deadline. Even if it’s a great paper, it’s still late. Credit works in a similar way. Once I understood that, I stopped relying on memory. Instead, I started creating systems. Calendar reminders, checking my banking app regularly, reviewing my statement every month instead of only when I happened to think about it. It even got to the point where I would pay my bill multiple times a month.

One thing I also considered was setting up automatic payments. I think they’re a great option for people who have a dependable amount of money in their bank account every month. In short, it ensures that you don’t miss a payment. Personally, I still like checking my statement myself because it forces me to review what I’ve spent, but having automatic payments as a backup can definitely provide some peace of mind.

A quick note about a misconception I had: even though I didn’t miss a payment on purpose, I used to think that carrying a balance past the payment due date somehow helped build my credit score. I don’t even remember where I heard that, but for some reason I believed that leaving an overdue balance on my card and paying interest showed lenders I was using my credit responsibly. This simply isn’t true.

Increasing my credit limit (without increasing my spending)

After learning more about credit utilization, I started wondering if increasing my credit limit would help. To explore this topic, I called my bank asking for a credit limit increase. To my surprise, it was approved immediately and my limit increased from $1,000 to $2,500. The interesting part was that nothing actually changed financially. I didn’t suddenly have more money or started spending more. All that changed was the amount of available credit I had. Using the same example as before, a $300 balance on a $1,000 limit is around 30% utilization. That same $300 balance on a $2,500 limit is only 12%. The balance stayed the same, but the credit utilization decreased.

Getting a higher limit doesn’t automatically improve your credit score. It also doesn’t mean you should suddenly start spending more just because the bank says you can. In fact, I think that’s probably where some people get into trouble. Imagine someone who normally spends about $300 a month. Then they receive a higher limit and start spending $1,200 simply because the money is “available.” Nothing has actually improved; the only thing that’s grown is the bill you have to pay off.

For me, getting a higher limit wasn’t about changing my lifestyle. If anything, I wanted my spending to stay exactly the same. I try to use my credit card for purchases I was already planning to make anyway, such as groceries, gas, subscriptions, or other everyday expenses. I don’t want my credit card to encourage me to spend more than I normally would.

Looking back, I’m really glad I made that phone call. It wasn’t nearly as intimidating as I expected, and it reminded me that sometimes it doesn’t hurt to ask.

Building credit requires patience and discipline

One thing I had to learn to accept was that there really isn’t a shortcut to building good credit. I found myself checking my credit score far more often than I probably needed to. Every time I paid my credit card or made what I thought was a smart financial decision, I expected to see an immediate improvement. It almost became a habit to refresh my credit monitoring app and hope that the number had gone up overnight (which it did from 673 to 674, ha). Of course, that isn’t how it works.

Credit scores take time to reflect new information, and lenders report to the credit bureaus on different schedules. I eventually realized that building credit is much more like building a reputation than studying for a test. One good month doesn’t erase previous mistakes, just like one late payment doesn’t define your financial future forever. What matters is creating a consistent pattern over time, and once I accepted that, I stopped stressing over every small change in my score and started focusing on the habits that I knew would benefit me in the long run.

I started looking at my credit report instead of just my credit score

For a while, I was completely focused on my credit score because it was the number everyone seemed to talk about. It was easy to compare scores with what I read online and wonder whether mine was considered good enough.

Eventually, I realized that the score is really just a summary of what is written in your credit report. The report itself tells a much bigger story because it shows your accounts, payment history, balances, credit inquiries, and other information that lenders actually look at. Once I understood that, I started paying attention to my credit report instead of only looking at the number attached to it. It also made me realize how important it is to review your report occasionally to make sure everything is accurate. We are human beings and mistakes happen; however it is much easier to correct them if you notice them early.

Looking at my report also helped me understand why my score was where it was instead of simply wondering why it wasn’t higher.

My student loans are part of the picture too

For the longest time, I only thought about my credit card when I thought about my credit score. It wasn’t until later that I realized my student loans are also part of my overall credit profile. That might seem obvious, but I genuinely hadn’t thought about it before.

I used to think of my student loans as something completely separate because they are helping pay for my education rather than funding everyday spending. However, they are still a credit obligation, and eventually they become another account that reflects how responsibly I manage borrowed money. That realization made me stop looking at my finances as separate pieces and start looking at them as one complete picture.

Building good credit isn’t just about keeping my credit card balance manageable. It is about understanding that every financial commitment attached to my name contributes to the bigger picture.

Being more intentional and informed about credit decisions

I don’t think my credit journey has been remarkable. I didn’t discover some secret strategy that nobody else knows about. It has been about learning from small mistakes, asking questions when I didn’t understand something, and slowly building better habits over time.

The more interested I became in personal finance in general, the more I found myself reading about different credit cards, financing options, and promotional offers. It was honestly tempting to apply for everything that looked interesting because every product seemed to promise better rewards or better benefits. At one point, I even applied to finance a purchase through Affirm and was declined. At first, I was disappointed because I couldn’t understand why. My immediate thought was that maybe I should just apply somewhere else and see if another company approved me instead. After doing more research, I realized that constantly applying for credit simply because you’re curious or because one lender declined you is usually not the best approach.

Every credit application should have a purpose, and I started asking myself whether I actually needed the product or whether I was only applying because I wanted to see if I could get approved.

I’ve become much more intentional with how I use my credit card, and developed routines that help me stay on top of my finances instead of hoping I remember everything.

Building good credit isn’t really about chasing the highest score possible. It is about becoming someone who consistently manages money responsibly. There will always be another article promising a quick way to boost your credit score or another company claiming they have the perfect solution. From my own experience, however, the biggest improvements have come from doing the boring things consistently: paying on time, keeping my spending under control, and being patient enough to let those habits build over time.

You don’t have to understand everything about credit right away. I certainly didn’t and I still have much to learn. Building credit is a long-term process, and the habits you develop while you’re a student can make future financial decisions much easier. My credit journey is definitely not finished, but looking back, I can say that taking the time to understand how credit works has been one of the most valuable financial lessons I’ve learned so far.

Savers Roundup July 2026: 4.50% for a 4-month GIC; a 2-year savings account promo rate; new credit cards

Black cat

YNCU (Ontario only) currently has a 4.50% 4-month GIC offer on new deposits. The offer is available to both new and existing members, with a minimum deposit of $1,000. Since it’s a GIC, your money is locked in for the full 4-month term, unlike a high interest savings account where you can withdraw funds at any time. But this easily beats the current top 1-year GIC rate of 3.65% at MCAN Financial as well as the top savings account interest rate of 2.85% at Saven Financial.

Manulife Bank has a new twist on the promo game: it’s offering 3.00% on new deposits for a whopping 2 years in non-registered Advantage Accounts opened by September 10, 2026.

Tiered rates are trending

Neo Financial had been offering 3.00% in a savings account if you had at least $20,000. But as of June 24, that has decreased to 2.75%, and its base interest rate is down from 2.25% to 2.00%. On a positive note, they also announced joint chequing accounts, which is always a popular feature with our users.

WealthONE joined the tiered rate party as of July 1. The bank kept its base rate unchanged at 2.60%, meaning no customer is worse off so far under the new structure. If your savings account balance is at least $10,000, you’ll earn 2.75%; if your balance is at least $25,000, you’ll earn 3.00%. Existing accounts were automatically moved to the new system, so no action was required.

For comparison, EQ Bank is offering 2.75% if you have an eligible direct deposit, and KOHO is offering 3.50% if you’re on its paid $14.75 monthly plan.

5 mistakes that first time savers make

Our student writer Lena M’s latest article shares some lessons about savings and chequing accounts that are applicable to savers of all ages. Do you leave excess money sitting in your chequing account? Do you leave money sitting in a low interest savings account after a promo rate has expired? Do you have too many bank accounts without a defined purpose for each account?

Tangerine’s new credit card

Tangerine has released a new credit card: the Tangerine® Rewards World Elite®* Mastercard®*. It is Tangerine’s first card with an annual fee ($120) but comes with a bonus of 30,000 Scene+ points if you spend at least $3,000 in the first 3 months, and an additional 10,000 Scene+ points if you spend at least $30,000 in the first year. The base earn rate is 1.5x Scene+ points per dollar spent in 3 out of 13 spending categories of your choice, and 1x Scene+ point per dollar spent on all other purchases. Other benefits include discounts at Shell (up to 7 cents per litre in instant fuel discounts for a limited time and earn up to 3 Scene+ points per litre with an eligible Tangerine payment card linked to a Shell Go+ Account) and 4 complimentary lounge passes per year. We’re also offering $125 via Interac e-Transfer or a $125 Amazon.ca gift card if you sign up through our cash back website.

Wealthsimple no-fee 1% cash back Visa coming?

Wealthsimple is currently testing a new no annual fee Visa Infinite credit card that offers 1% cash back on all purchases.

A no-fee 1% cash back credit card beats most such cards in Canada other than the Rogers Mastercards. What makes the Wealthsimple card a little different is that cardholders can choose 3 perks from a list of options, including things like no foreign transaction fees, travel insurance, mobile device insurance, rental car coverage, and airport lounge discounts. Once selected, those perks are locked in for 12 months.

The card also includes the standard Visa Infinite benefits such as concierge service, hotel perks, purchase protection, and extended warranty coverage. The card is currently being tested with a limited number of users and there is no official launch date yet.

EQ Bank acquired PC Financial: what’s next?

EQ Bank’s parent company, EQB, has officially acquired PC Financial in a deal worth about $800 million. The deal was first announced in December 2025 and officially closed on July 1. EQB has added approximately 2 million PC Financial customers to its existing customer base, bringing the combined total to around 3.3 million customers. One of the biggest parts of the deal is that EQB will become the exclusive banking partner of the PC Optimum program (which remains owned by Loblaw), which has over 18 million members across Canada. EQB says the acquisition will give it access to PC Financial’s credit card business, more than 600 ATMs, and marketing opportunities through roughly 2,500 Loblaw-owned stores like Real Canadian Superstore, No Frills, and Shoppers Drug Mart.

For now, nothing is changing with the PC Money Savings Account. The account continues to exist with rates and fees remaining as-is. Existing accounts, credit cards, rewards, and PC Optimum points continue to work as usual. Over time, EQ Bank customers may see more opportunities to earn PC Optimum points through banking products, while PC Financial customers could gain access to EQ Bank’s savings accounts, GICs, TFSAs, and other digital banking services. EQB says the goal is to create a stronger alternative to Canada’s big banks by combining EQ Bank’s digital banking platform with PC Financial’s large customer base and loyalty ecosystem.

5 mistakes that first-time savers make

Studying

As a fourth-year college student, I’m still relatively new to managing my own finances. At first, just opening a bank account – or multiple, in my case – was enough of an accomplishment. I didn’t really think much about where my money was going or what it was doing as long as I’d put it in a bank account. After a few years of experience, speaking with others, and reading up on personal finance, I noticed a few mistakes that I’d been making, and that are likely common mistakes for first-time savers!

1. Opening accounts without having a plan

At one point, I became fascinated with banking products. Every time I learned about a new account, a promotional offer, a sign-up bonus, a new feature, or even the look of a card (yes, I’ll admit this), I found myself thinking, “maybe I should open that too”. Eventually I understood why people joke about collecting bank accounts like Pokémon cards. The problem wasn’t having multiple accounts. The problem was that I didn’t always have a reason for opening them. People naturally want to optimize everything. Better rates, better rewards, better features.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with having multiple accounts. In fact, many financially organized people do exactly that. Some have one account for spending. One for emergency savings, one for long-term goals, one for investing, and so on. The difference is that every account has a purpose. One question I now think is useful before opening any new account is: “What job is this account supposed to do?” If there is a clear answer, then the account might make sense. If there isn’t, it may simply create more complexity than value.

2. Leaving extra money sitting in a chequing account

Looking back, this was probably one of the first mistakes I made. Like many students, I had one bank account and everything happened there. My paycheques were deposited into it, bills came out of it, and any money I managed to save stayed there too. At the time, I genuinely thought that was what saving was. If I wasn’t spending the money, then I was saving it. Simple. The problem is that many chequing accounts earn little to no interest. While the money is technically safe, it isn’t really doing much. One of the biggest lessons I learned was that saving money and storing money are not always the same thing.

Another issue is that when all your money sits in one account, it becomes harder to tell what is actually available to spend. If your emergency fund, spending money, and savings goals are all mixed together, it can be easy to accidentally dip into money that was supposed to stay untouched. Something that helped me was separating money based on purpose. Having one account for everyday spending and another for savings created a mental barrier (in a good way). Suddenly my savings felt like savings instead of just extra money sitting there waiting to be spent. Even small amounts moved regularly into an account dedicated to savings can make a difference over time.

3. Chasing promotional rates without reading the details

The first time I saw a bank advertising a promotional savings rate that was significantly higher than what I was earning, I was immediately interested (pun not intended), as most people would be. You see a big number advertised and think, “wow, that’s a really good rate”. And it usually is. However, this is one of the most common topics discussed in banking forums for a reason. Many people focus on the promotional rate itself without paying attention to the details behind it. Some promotions only last a few months. Some only apply to new customers. Others only apply to new deposits. And some (I’m looking at you, Scotiabank) have even more complicated rules requiring a minimum balance, or requiring you to keep your money in the account for a certain period of time, or both. And once the promotional period ends, the interest rate may drop significantly.

I have seen countless discussions where people compare promotional offers and discuss strategies for moving money between institutions. One thing that experienced savers constantly remind each other is that getting the promotional rate is only half the strategy. The other half is knowing exactly when it ends. One mistake people make is opening the account, depositing the money, and then completely forgetting about it. A few months later they discover the promotion ended weeks ago and they are now earning a much lower rate.

That is why I always think promotional rates should come with a plan. If someone is opening an account for a promotional offer, they should also know what they plan to do when that promotion expires.

4. Not building an emergency fund first

If someone had asked me a few years ago about emergency funds, I probably would have thought they were something people worried about later in life. Maybe once they owned a house, maybe once they had kids, maybe once they had a full-time career. What I didn’t realize was that emergencies happen regardless of your age or financial situation – even if you’re a student! Life has a way of being expensive when you least expect it. When people first start saving, there is often a temptation to focus entirely on growth. Investing feels exciting. Watching money increase feels exciting. Searching for the highest return possible feels exciting. Emergency funds don’t feel as exciting. But emergency funds are often what prevent financial stress from turning into financial problems. Without emergency savings, people often end up relying on credit cards or lines of credit to cover unexpected expenses. Then what started as a temporary inconvenience becomes debt that follows them for months.

One thing I have learned is that emergency savings deserve their own space. Keeping emergency money separate from other savings makes it easier to avoid spending it on things that are not actually emergencies. The goal is not to build a perfect emergency fund overnight. The goal is simply to create some breathing room for life’s “fun” money surprises.

5. Thinking saving only counts if it’s a large amount

This is one that I think social media has made worse. It is easy to scroll online and see people talking about maxing out investment accounts, saving thousands of dollars every month, or reaching major financial milestones. For students and young adults, that can feel discouraging. There were definitely times where saving small amounts felt pointless. Saving $20 or $50 didn’t seem impressive. It felt like everyone else was moving faster.

But over time I realized something important which was that most successful savers didn’t start by saving huge amounts of money. They started by building habits. A person who saves $50 every month for years is often in a better position than someone who saves a large amount once and then gives up.

The hardest part of saving is usually not the math. It is consistency. Some months are better than others. Sometimes there is extra money available. Sometimes there isn’t. What matters most is building a routine that can survive both situations. Small amounts still count and small amounts still build habits. And those habits are often what lead to bigger financial goals later.

Savers Roundup June 2026: Mo Money Mo Interest, Monthly Millionaire, and do you love gold?

Pyramid of golf balls

GIC rates have continued creeping higher, with the top 5-year GIC rate now at 4.10% (from Wealth One Bank of Canada). The top rates for other terms on our chart:

  • 1-year GIC: 3.65% (MCAN Financial)
  • 2-year GIC: 3.90% (MCAN Financial and Wealth One Bank of Canada)
  • 3-year GIC: 3.90% (MCAN Financial and Wealth One Bank of Canada)
  • 4-year GIC: 3.95% (MCAN Financial and Wealth One Bank of Canada)

For all but the 2-year term, you should be able to get an even higher rate from a GIC broker.

The current savings account interest rate leader is still Saven Financial, which offers 2.85% on both its regular savings account and TFSA.

Brokerage investment savings accounts continue to be an attractive option for any cash you have sitting in your investment account, but they have lost their former lustre. A couple of years ago, they used to be similar to, and even topped, the highest savings account interest rates.

Tangerine tiered rates vs traditional promo rates

Tangerine has offered targeted promotional savings rates to some existing customers for years (since at least as early as 2015) with a market-leading interest rate that lasts for a few months. This has consistently been one of the most frequently discussed topics in our forum. Over the past 2 years, some customers have reported receiving a new type of offer called a tiered savings rate, where the interest rate depends on how much money you have with Tangerine.

These tiered rates are often lower than the “traditional promo” rates, but they usually last longer (6 months instead of 3 months), and they apply to the entire savings account balance rather than only to new deposits. You also don’t have to “accept” the tiered rates when they’re offered, unlike the traditional existing account promos that you have to accept. As per usual, different promo rates are being offered to different clients.

Early reports of tiered rates were underwhelming:

Balance (total across Tangerine accounts) | Rate
$0 to $49,999 | 0.35%
$50,000 to $99,999 | 0.75%
$100,000 to $499,999 | 1.75%
$500,000 and above | 2.25%

… but more recently reported tiered rates have gotten better:

Balance (total across Tangerine accounts) | Rate
$0 to $49,999 | 2.00%
$50,000 to $99,999 | 2.50%
$100,000 to $499,999 | 3.00%
$500,000 and above | 3.50%

Even the highest tier still gives you a lower interest rate than the most recent new deposit promos (4.10%-4.25% for 3 months). This had led to concerns about people getting “stuck” on the tiered rates. However, we’ve had at least one report of someone being offered the traditional promo rates while on a tiered rate.

Outlook Financial discontinues Me2Me transfers

“Me2Me transfers” is what Outlook Financial calls the ability to link external bank accounts in order to push or pull funds. It has been 11 years since Outlook Financial first started offering this, but that ends on June 11. It’s odd that they’re completely discontinuing it (rather than simply changing it to use something like Flinks or Plaid), because most online banks support this to make it easier to move your money. (None of the big banks support linking external accounts; you have to make the link from the other financial institution.)

Outlook Financial’s own announcement says that alternatives include e-Transfers, but that you can write yourself a cheque or initiate the transfer from the other financial institution.

Wealthsimple: more and more features

Wealthsimple’s latest product announcement was predictably less grandiose than its “We Take Over Your Life” headline. It nonetheless included some notable highlights:

  • Kids and Teens Accounts (coming this fall): designed to give young users access to basic banking tools while allowing parents to maintain oversight/control of the account. Parents can view transactions in real time, receive customizable purchase alerts, set spending limits for individual transactions or weekly and monthly totals, block certain spending categories, and freeze or unfreeze the card when needed. It also allows parents to provide allowances, transfer additional funds, and to pay additional interest as an incentive for saving. This complements Wealthsimple’s existing “Household” feature that enables you to view linked accounts from a single dashboard.
  • Portfolio line of credit (available now): access to immediate credit when borrowing against your portfolio
  • USD chequing accounts (coming this fall): Wealthsimple already offers a USD savings account, but a USD chequing account is coming soon for both personal and business accounts, providing “access to US payment systems” — will that include ACH banking details?
  • Additional business account features: business portfolio line of credit is coming this spring, and a prepaid card is coming this summer
  • A bunch of giveways, including “Monthly Millionaire” — this might be inherently cheesy, but is still a cash giveaway, and unique compared to other financial institutions!

A primer on gold: new article

Is gold part of your investment portfolio? Or have you been intrigued by the meteoric rise in gold prices over the past 2 years, and want a primer on gold as an investment?

Rico M’s latest article is on “The wonderful world of gold and its investment opportunities: part 1“.

He covers the history of gold, the types of gold (paper versus physical gold), ways to invest in gold, the karat unit purity measurement, and the risks of investing in gold!

The wonderful world of gold and its investment opportunities: part 1

Gold rings

You have likely seen gold in one form or another. Gold can be jewellery, a luxury accessory, a fine dining flex, or the classic safe haven / hedge asset that investors gravitate towards when markets become a little too volatile. Gold as an asset and as a commodity has long carried a reputation for holding value and being considered the “gold standard”, which is why it continues to show up in conversations about diversification, inflation, and long-term investing. It is also one of those rare things that manages to be both serious and meme-worthy, whether it is associated with wealth, tradition, or a certain unforgettable Austin Powers reference to “Goldmember”.

Goldmember saying "I love goooooold"

So, what exactly is gold, and why do people buy it? Is it worth adding to a portfolio and holding onto? All these topics and more will be discussed in this two-part series as gold is broken down as an investment opportunity.

Understanding the basics of gold: a quick jump through time

Before being able to dive into the basic foundations of gold and its modern-day use cases, it is important to have the historical and cultural understanding of gold, and what led to its rise in popularity.

Gold has been traced as far back as ancient Mesopotamia around ~4000 BCE. Ancient civilizations used it for jewellery, religious artifacts, and symbols which were representative of divine power and wealth. Those who held gold were quickly considered powerful and wealthy, often seen as having divine status, as wealth was closely tied to both power and religious clout. Over time, gold began to outshine other metals like silver, bronze, and copper, which were heavily used during the Bronze Age for tools, weapons, and as early coinages. Part of the reason for gold becoming adopted and being highly sought after was simply because of its natural scarcity. Its high malleability also made it easier to shape without breaking or damaging. These traits continued forward with its association and characteristics of wealth and status until ~600 BCE when it replaced the legacy bartering system and became the official coinage for trade. And the rest, as they say, is history — and what we now know as the gold standard today, at least from a benchmark perspective.

What is the “gold standard”?

The “gold standard” was a monetary system where a country’s currency value was directly linked to a specific amount of gold. Essentially, the higher the gold reserve, the stronger the currency was. No major countries are tied or pegged to the gold standard anymore (since the USA essentially ended it in the 1970s). Today, the gold standard is commonly known as a metaphor for a benchmark representing the best-in-class to be used in comparisons.

What are the types of gold to invest in?

There are several ways to invest in gold, but they generally fall into two buckets: physical gold and paper gold. Physical gold includes bullion, bars, coins, and jewellery, while paper gold includes exchange-traded funds (ETFs), mutual funds, futures and forward contracts, and mining stocks. Each asset class has its own unique set of risks and benefits.

Physical gold

Gold bullion Bullion refers to high-purity gold, typically in the form of bars or investment-grade coins, and its price is generally driven by the current spot price of gold (the live market price at which gold trades) plus any dealer markup, fabrication costs, and handling fees.
Gold bars A type of bullion, best for investors who want direct exposure to gold content, often with lower premiums than smaller retail products. Price is dictated based on the spot price of a single Oz of gold plus associated retailer fees.
Gold coins A type of bullion, gold coins are usually minted by governments or recognized refineries, and while their value is still closely tied to gold’s spot price, they often carry a higher premium than bars because of minting, collectability, and retail costs. They are often more liquid than bars, making them easier for re-sale.
Gold jewellery Gold jewellery is physical gold in the sense that it contains real gold that you can hold, but it is not typically considered investment-grade physical gold because premiums, craftsmanship, and resale discounts can reduce value. It is ideal for collectors or those who want something wearable with some gold content, but not for pure investing.

Paper gold

Gold ETFs and mutual funds Shares, funds, or trust units that track the price of gold rather than the metal itself. The price is usually tied to the spot market with fund fees and other product costs layered into the NAV (Net Asset Value of the investment). Best for investors who want exposure to the gold price without storing physical metal and want high liquidity assets.
Gold mining companies Shares of companies involved in exploring, mining, refining, or producing gold. Their value is influenced by the gold price, but also by the company’s performance, production costs, debt, management, and broader market conditions. Best for investors who want indirect exposure to gold with the potential for higher upside, but also higher volatility than physical gold or gold funds.
Gold futures Futures contracts that give investors exposure to the future price of gold rather than the metal itself. Their value is tied to the spot market and contract price. It can involve leverage, margin requirements, and contract rollover costs. Best for advanced investors who want tactical gold exposure and high liquidity, but can tolerate greater risk as leverage can drastically increase both gains and losses.

Paper vs physical gold as an investment

When considering whether to buy gold, investors should be clear about what they are trying to achieve and how much risk they are comfortable taking on. For example, beginners may want to consider physical gold, as it is traditionally a relatively risk-off allocation (lower risk than paper gold and many other non-gold investments, as its price is impacted by the spot price of gold and in the case of jewellery, rarity). As a result, physical gold can offer direct exposure and diversification for investors.

By contrast, gold mining companies have additional risks such as management performance, property issues, legal risk, and even the possibility of mining nationalization. In that sense, mining stocks are more of a risk-on (higher risk at least compared to physical gold) way to gain exposure to gold, but can come with higher upside potential as their share price is impacted by more than just the spot price of gold. Gold funds, ETFs, and futures offer a variety of risks but have higher liquidity ratios and can be correlated to the spot price of gold or can leverage derivatives to increase upside potential. Of course, with higher upside potential there is also greater downside potential.

So rather than treating all gold investments the same, investors should think of them as different opportunities within the same space that have varying degrees of risk, liquidity, and upside potential.

Should I buy gold?

Whether or not you should buy gold depends on your goals, time horizon, and risk tolerance. Gold can be useful if you are looking for added diversification, a hedge against uncertainty, or exposure to a hard asset. However, gold is not designed to be a high-growth investment.

Historically, its performance is under 10% (annualized since 1916) and has had periods of extended stagnation. Recent years have experienced higher annualized returns due to heightened uncertainty and geopolitical tensions, sending the underlying asset to historic highs, hitting almost $5,600 USD an ounce in January 2026. However, because gold does not generate earnings, dividends, or cash flow, it is often not relied on as the primary growth engine for a portfolio and is generally a sleeve within a broader diversified portfolio.

When considering whether to buy gold or not, investors should consider if a specific type of gold exposure (the type of gold) fits or meets the role in their portfolio or life prior to investing, especially when nearing historic valuations.

Karat gold, and what is its purpose?

Like other hard assets, gold has a valuation of purity that is known as “karat”. Gold purity or “karat” is valued out of 24 and it denotes the ratio of pure gold to base metals and alloys. The higher the karat, the higher the purity, and thus higher the value. At the same time, the lower the karat value, the higher alloy content, and thus generally lower value. For example, 24K or 24 karat gold is around 99-100% pure gold, which implies that the value of the item would be higher relative to the spot price of gold. A lower karat gold such as 18 karat, has around 75% gold, and its value would then be lower in contrast to 24 karat due to having a higher alloy content. What is important to note is that the karat level also impacts the end use. Lower karats, such as 22K, 18K, 14K, or 10K, are ideal for jewellery as they are more durable due to having higher alloy content; but it also means you are getting less gold per gram, so the value is less. If the goal is purely investment-based, then higher karat content is the direction. If the goal is more practical or jewellery based, then lower karat content is the direction.

Gold karat explanation: 24K is best for investment; 22K is common in jewellery and some coin markets; 18K and below is better for wearability than for investing

How to verify the authenticity and purity of physical gold?

Before buying gold, it is important to verify both its authenticity and purity. The easiest way is to check for official stamps, mint markings, karat markings, assay certificates, and serial numbers where applicable. These steps are often easy to conduct, especially when buying gold from established and reliable places that are transparent with their offering. Organizations like major banks, recognized bullion dealers, governments, and retail stores like Walmart and Costco will have all these details available (and often on display). These establishments are also recommended for purchasing physical gold items vs online stores, secondary markets, or private sellers. This is due to their transparency, historical backings / established reputations, and clear return policies. An added benefit is that most established retailers will have secured delivery and proper storage for the precious metals.

Aspect What to check / do Why it matters
Primary verification
  • Official stamps
  • Karat markings / mint markings
  • Serial numbers
  • Assay certificates
Confirms purity and authenticity
Recommended purchase locations
  • Major banks
  • Recognized bullion dealers
  • Government mints/websites
  • Trusted retailers (e.g. Walmart, Costco)
High transparency, clear policies, secure delivery
Best practices
  • Buy from reputable sellers
  • Request original packaging & certification
  • Check against recognized mint/refinery standards
Reduces risk of counterfeit or low-quality gold
For higher-value purchases
  • Use professional testing (jeweller, bullion dealer, or assay expert)
Extra assurance on large investments
Red flags
  • Deals that seem too good to be true, especially on secondary markets or private sellers
High risk of fraud or substandard product

What are the risks of investing in gold?

Just like any investment, gold comes with its own unique set of risks. While gold can help diversify a portfolio and act as a hedge during periods of uncertainty, it is not entirely risk-free.

For example, the price of gold can fluctuate significantly based on market conditions, investor sentiment, interest rates, inflation expectations, and global economic events, sometimes even market volatility can play a role. If the market price of gold declines, the value of both physical and paper gold investments can decline as well.

As previously discussed, physical gold comes with liquidity and storage considerations. Unlike stocks or ETFs that can typically be bought and sold quickly on an exchange, selling physical gold can sometimes take longer depending on the type of asset and market demand. In certain situations, investors may need to sell through dealers, secondary markets, or private buyers, which can impact pricing and liquidity. Physical gold may also require secure storage and insurance, both of which can increase the overall cost of holding the investment. The value of physical gold can also vary depending on the form of the asset. For example, bullion products are generally tied closely to the spot price of gold, while collectibles may derive additional value from rarity, condition, historical significance, or brand recognition.

Paper gold investments, such as ETFs, mutual funds, and futures contracts, introduce a different set of risks. In addition to market risk, investors may also face product risk depending on how the investment is structured. For example, some gold ETFs and mutual funds may not hold physical gold directly and instead gain exposure through mining equities, futures contracts, derivatives, or other financial instruments. This can cause the investment’s performance to differ from the actual movement of physical gold. Additionally, because it is a paper gold investment, liquidity constraints can play a role too, which is why some ETFs or mutual funds may be delisted due to a lack of money-in-flow (not enough investment in the fund, and low liquidity so it is terminated).

More complex gold products introduce counterparty risk. This risk is generally associated with investments that rely on futures, swaps, derivatives, or contractual agreements between financial institutions rather than direct ownership of physical gold. Counterparty risk is where the other party in the transaction defaults on the contract before settlement, causing the value to decline or when an investor is trying to convert the paper asset into the underlying physical assets, but the physical asset is not delivered. In some cases, this could impact the value, settlement, or redemption of the investment. Complex products can be beneficial for experienced investors or those working directly with an investment professional.

So, is it better to buy gold coins, bars, or jewellery as an investment?

This comes down to personal preference but also an investor’s goals and intended use. Gold bars are often preferred by investors looking for lower premiums and direct exposure to the spot price of gold. Gold coins can offer better liquidity, recognizability, and collectability, but may come with slightly higher premiums. Jewellery, watches, and collectible pieces can sometimes generate strong returns due to brand value, rarity, and demand, but they can also be significantly harder to value and resell. For investors focused purely on gold exposure, bullion bars and investment-grade coins are generally an easier option.

Summary: how to invest in gold (basics about physical vs paper)

This is where many beginners get tripped up, because “owning gold” can mean very different things. Physical gold means you actually hold the metal in the form of bars or coins. Paper gold usually means gold ETFs, gold funds, mining stocks, or other financial instruments tied to the metal’s price.

Physical gold gives you direct ownership, but it also means dealing with storage, insurance, and security. It can also be less convenient to sell quickly if you need cash fast. Paper gold is easier to trade, simpler to buy in a brokerage account, and often cheaper to store, but it can introduce different risks because you do not personally hold the metal.

In plain English:

  • Physical gold is better for people who want tangible ownership.
  • Paper gold is better for people who want convenience and liquidity.

Stay tuned

If you enjoyed this introductory edition to the wonderful world of gold and its investment opportunities, stay tuned for part two of the series as we explore the technicals related to gold: the factors that impact the price of gold, tax implications, market drivers, and more!

Disclaimers

This article is independently written and not sponsored by any financial institution. The views expressed are solely those of the author(s) based on their research and analysis. The content is for informational purposes only and should not be considered financial advice. Always consult a qualified financial professional before making investment decisions. Reading this article does not create a professional relationship with the author(s) or affiliated organizations. It is not a substitute for personalized financial guidance.

Investing involves risks, including potential loss of principal. Readers are solely responsible for their investment decisions. Past performance does not guarantee future results. Historical or projected returns may not reflect actual future performance. The use of information in this article is at the reader’s own risk. The author and publisher are not responsible for any errors, omissions, or resulting losses/damages.